Is a Two-Tone Submariner Worth the Extra Cost?
Yes, if you want the look of gold without paying for a solid-gold Rolex. A two-tone Submariner pairs steel with 18k yellow gold and comes with either a blue or black dial. For a classic 40mm watch, look at the pre-owned 16613 or 116613. For a newer 41mm case and longer power reserve, look at the 126613.
The price bump is mostly about style, not a bigger dive rating: both the steel and two-tone Submariners are rated to 300 meters. Pre-owned two-tone examples in the supplied listings run from about $14,300 to $19,555, but condition and paperwork can change what a watch is worth.
At Masina Diamonds, we've spent over 40 years helping Atlanta shoppers choose fine jewelry and luxury watches. We'll help you weigh whether a 2 tone submariner fits your style and budget before you compare specific models.
The Anatomy of the 2 Tone Submariner: Steel Meets 18k Yellow Gold
The two-tone Submariner blends two distinct worlds: rugged utilitarian engineering and high-end luxury. In Rolex terminology, this pairing of robust steel and lustrous precious metal is known as Rolesor. On a two-tone Submariner, the center links of the bracelet, the knurled unidirectional bezel ring, and the winding crown are crafted from solid 18k yellow gold. These warm, polished accents sit against the brushed framework of Oystersteel—a proprietary 904L stainless steel alloy known for superior corrosion resistance and brilliant surface sheen.
Beyond aesthetic appeal, the watch retains the dive-tool specifications of the standard line. Much like the all-steel Rolex Submariner Date in Oystersteel, the two-tone edition delivers:
- Cerachrom Ceramic Bezel: Introduced on modern references to replace aluminum inserts, this ceramic component resists scratches, UV fading, and saltwater corrosion.
- Chromalight Luminescence: Large hands and hour markers coated with blue Chromalight glow brightly in low-light environments for up to 8–9 hours.
- Triplock Waterproofing System: A patented triple-seal screw-down crown that safeguards the internal mechanical movement to depths of 300 meters (1,000 feet).
- Glidelock Clasp: Built directly into the clasp, this mechanism allows fine, tool-free sizing adjustments up to roughly 20mm in 2mm increments.
The Blue "Bluesy" vs. Classic Black Dial Configurations
When choosing a two-tone Submariner, your primary visual decision centers on the dial and bezel combination:
- The "Bluesy" (LB References - Lunette Bleue): References such as the 116613LB and newer 126613LB pair a royal blue sunburst dial with a matching blue Cerachrom ceramic bezel. The sunburst finish catches ambient light across various angles, producing deep navy hues indoors and electric cobalt shades in direct sunlight.
- The Classic Black (LN References - Lunette Noire): References like the 116613LN and 126613LN feature a glossy black lacquer dial framed by an ink-black bezel. This layout offers a more reserved, monochromatic contrast against the yellow gold accents.
While the black dial option leans versatile and understated under business attire, the vibrant Bluesy remains one of the most recognized dive watches ever made.
Diamond-Set Dials and Factory Gem Options
For collectors seeking added luxury, Rolex produced select two-tone Submariner models with factory gem-set dials. Historically found on references like the 116613LB and older 16613 variants, these factory configurations replace standard geometric hour markers with brilliant-cut diamonds (frequently accented with sapphire baguettes at the 6, 9, and 12 positions).
Factory diamond markers introduce genuine scarcity to the pre-owned market. Pristine examples with original paperwork often command higher prices than their standard luminescent counterparts. When exploring diamond-set dials, it is important to distinguish original factory gem settings from aftermarket customizations. Custom modifications can affect long-term collectibility and liquidity on the secondary market.
Generation Breakdown: 16613 vs 116613LB vs 126613LB
The two-tone Submariner has evolved across three primary generations over the past few decades, transitioning from traditional tool watch proportions to modern luxury dimensions.
| Feature / Model | Ref. 16613 (Neo-Vintage) | Ref. 116613LB / LN (Ceramic Generation) | Ref. 126613LB / LN (Current Generation) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Production Window | ~1988 – 2009 | 2009 – 2020 | 2020 – Present |
| Case Diameter | 40 mm | 40 mm ("Super Case") | 41 mm (Slimmer lugs) |
| Lug Width | 20 mm | 20 mm | 21 mm |
| Bezel Material | Anodized Aluminum | Cerachrom Ceramic | Cerachrom Ceramic |
| Internal Calibre | Calibre 3135 | Calibre 3135 | Calibre 3235 |
| Power Reserve | ~48 Hours | ~48 Hours | ~70 Hours |
| Luminescence | Tritium / Super-LumiNova | Chromalight (Blue) | Chromalight (Blue) |
| Bracelet Clasp | Stamped Tuna-Can / Gold-Through | Solid Oysterlock w/ Glidelock | Solid Oysterlock w/ Glidelock |
To explore standard stainless configurations from similar eras, compare models such as the Rolex Submariner 126610LN or the green-bezel Rolex Submariner Hulk.
Calibre 3135 vs Calibre 3235: Performance & Engineering
The mechanical shift between generations represents a major technical upgrade:
- Rolex Calibre 3135: Powering the 16613 and 116613LB, this automatic 31-jewel movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and provides a 48-hour power reserve. Built around a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, it is widely regarded as one of the most reliable workhorse calibres in modern horology.
- Rolex Calibre 3235: Introduced to the Submariner family in 2020 with the 126613 series, this next-generation engine incorporates Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement. Made of nickel-phosphorus to resist magnetic interference, the efficient gear train expands the power reserve up to approximately 70 hours while maintaining Superlative Chronometer accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day.
Case Dimensions: 40mm Super Case vs 41mm Refined Profile
Although the nominal diameter expanded from 40mm to 41mm when the 126613 series arrived, the newer watch actually wears slightly slimmer. The older 116613 features wide, blocky lugs (often called the "Super Case"), giving it a squarer wrist presence. On the 126613, Rolex tapered the lugs, slimmed the crown guards, and widened the bracelet from 20mm to 21mm. This proportion shift distributes the weight of the steel and solid gold links more evenly across the wrist.
Pricing, Value Retention, and Market Dynamics in 2026
Evaluating the secondary and retail markets helps contextualize where the two-tone Submariner sits in the broader luxury landscape. In 2026, pricing spans a wide range based on reference age, dial style, and provenance:
- Neo-Vintage 16613: Pre-owned models from the mid-2000s in clean condition typically trade between $14,200 and $15,500.
- Ceramic 116613LB / 116613LN: Pre-owned black-dial configurations sit around $14,900 to $15,500, while unworn or mint blue "Bluesy" models trade from $16,500 to $21,400. Factory diamond-dial editions hover near $19,500.
- Current-Generation 126613LB / LN: Secondary pricing routinely mirrors or trades slightly above MSRP depending on complete set status, generally between $16,500 and $18,500.
For a broader perspective on luxury market trajectories, review our Rolex Watches Ultimate Guide 2026 and check out our insights on whether Rolex watches remain a worthy investment.
Evaluating Pre-Owned 2 Tone Submariner Condition and Authenticity
When shopping for pre-owned models, examining physical condition is essential to making a sound purchase:
- Box and Papers: Having the original guarantee card or paperwork confirms provenance and directly supports resale liquidity. Recent 40mm Submariner auction data shows that complete sets routinely command strong premiums over naked watches.
- Bracelet Stretch: Gold is softer than steel. On older 16613 references with hollow center links, decades of friction can wear internal pins and create bracelet sag. Modern solid-link bracelets (found on 116613 and 126613 models) reduce stretch significantly.
- Waterproofing and Pressure Testing: Gaskets dry out and crack over time. If you plan to submerge any pre-owned piece, have a qualified watchmaker pressure test the case seals first.
Browse our curated inventory of verified pre-owned Rolex watches to inspect authenticated, fully tested luxury timepieces.
The Price Bump Dilemma: Two-Tone vs. Full Steel and Solid Gold
Is the jump from an all-steel reference to a two-tone model justified?
A standard steel Submariner commands an entry retail baseline around $10,000–$13,200 (though waitlists often drive market premiums higher). Conversely, a solid gold reference like the Rolex Submariner Date in 18 kt yellow gold carries a retail price of $50,900.
The two-tone Submariner bridges this gap. It provides the luster of 18k yellow gold across the bezel, crown, and center links at a price tier far below full precious metal, making it an appealing middle ground for everyday versatility.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Two Tone Submariner
Is the two-tone Submariner considered a good investment?
Yes, two-tone Submariners have maintained stable secondary market demand for decades. While stainless steel sports models historically experience sharper market surges, two-tone references offer consistent long-term price floors supported by their intrinsic precious metal value and iconic design.
Can you swim or dive with a pre-owned two-tone Submariner?
Yes, provided the watch has been professionally pressure-tested. Every Submariner is engineered with a 300-meter depth rating and a Triplock screw-down crown. However, gaskets on pre-owned and vintage models age over time, so an annual water-resistance check is recommended before regular swimming.
What is the difference between Rolex 116613LB and 126613LB?
The reference 116613LB has a 40mm case with broader "Super Case" lugs and the Calibre 3135 movement (48-hour power reserve). The 126613LB features a 41mm case with slimmer, contoured lugs, a wider 21mm bracelet, and the upgraded Calibre 3235 movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
Conclusion
The two-tone Submariner remains an enduring icon in the luxury watch world. By combining the resilience of 904L Oystersteel with the warmth of 18k yellow gold, it transitions seamlessly from casual beachwear to formal events. Whether you prefer the classic proportions of the 116613 or the extended 70-hour reserve of the 41mm 126613, this two-tone model delivers substantial prestige without the price tag of solid gold.
At Masina Diamonds, our family-owned showroom brings over four decades of craftsmanship and horological expertise to help you find your next timepiece. If you are shopping for Rolex watches in Atlanta, GA, read our comprehensive Rolex watch guide for Atlanta buyers or visit our showroom to view our authenticated luxury collections in person.
